Siem Reap and Home

Back in Singapore

Well here I am back in Singapore, one week early. As a result of my bike fall in Phnom Penh I wasn't able to continue on the last three days of riding from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, so Hawk and I took the bus instead.

Siem Reap

We arrived in Siem Reap via bus, in the pooring rain, saddled up the bikes and rode into town. This was an adventure on its own, the streets were dark, it was wet and raining, and I was riding with my right arm in a sling. We managed in relative safety and found a place to stay the evening. After a tidy up I tried contacting friends in town to organise a visit to the 'Iqbal School' were I was hoping to pass on a donation in the name of my wonderful Year Four Class, 'The Polarbears'. After leaving a few messages I headed to bed to nurse my arm.

The following morning plans were put in place to visit the school in a few days, leaving time for sightseeing, including a day at the wonderful Angkor Wat.

Angkor WatGetting up at 4.15 and riding the 6 km to Angkor Wat was rewarded with a beautiful sunset, rising over that famous and inspiring skyline. I managed a few pictures, though I found it particularly difficult to hold the camera steady with my bad arm.

The rest of the day was spent riding around to many of the temples, taking pictures and just enjoying the beauty. This was a wonderful thrill that excited the imagination and inspired the photographer within.

The area is so large that it would take many days to see it fully, so with only one day available we stuck to the highlights.

Iqbal School

During my time in Laos and Cambodia I had been reading several books on the region, particularly time during the 1970's when both countries struggled under the politics and policies of those in power. I had read several truely sad stories of people's lives during this period. And hopefully I gained something of an understanding of the challenges that had faced the people in the past and still affected the region today.

My visit to the Iqbal School started with an amazing Tuk-Tuk ride that mirrored the description given to my by a collegue and friend who introduced me to the school. 'First you travel along a road, then you turn and the road gets narrower and rougher, then after a while you turn again. The road bacomes a bit narrower, a bit like a ox-cart track, and rougher. Then you have to turn off that road onto an even narrower and rougher road. You cross a bridge or two and the road narrows further. Then just when you think you couldn't be in an anymore remote a place you come around a corner and the road gets even more narrow and so rough you think the whole bike and tuk-tuk will fall apart. And then you're pretty much there'. And so it was.

We were guided by Megan, who has been working with the school for the last ten months, developing a level of sustainability, understanding and pride that will help the school and village long after she leaves in a couple of months. The children welcomed us with big smiles and a keeness to practise their English. They showed us their school and their routines and tried to ask questions about where we were from and what we did.

Their warmth and smiles put the smile back on my face, one that had been straining a little with the trials of a rough few days and the disappointment at not finishing the journey in the saddle.

Singapore

This week I have spent visiting doctors and specialist back in Singapore who tell me my arm is broken in two places and has ligament and tendon damage from being dislocated. Knowing this I realise it wouldn't have been possible to finish the way I wanted, but the 300km from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap still remain unfinished in my mind and in Hawk's I'm sure.

Phnom Penh - End Game

The last week has provided one or two challenges that have stretched my friendship with Laos and Cambodia.

Border Crossing
Hawk and I had been reading that the overland border crossing from Laos to Cambodia could be a little problematic, so we decided to bus it. We rode out of Pakse, down to the Champasek and then onto the Don Khong Islands to see a few more waterfalls, and have the pleasure of eating at a few nice restaurants on the banks of the Mekong.

In Champasek we were going to be seeing the temple at Wat Phu, said to rival many of the other great Khmer sites, ''including Angkor Wat''. It didn't unfortunately and our disappointment wasn't tempered by the fact that we were fast running out of money and the promised banking facilities at Champasek weren't there. So we had to ride back to Pakse, where the machine wouldn't accept my card.

Then because of the delay we sped things up with a lacal bus, a songtheow, to Don Khong. We loaded our bikes on the roof and got in, ready to go. We went - 2 hours later - with half a village, two fridges, a spare motor, 40 bags of rice and half a tonne of cabbages.

In Don Khong we stayed a fabulous guest house run by Mr Poh who arranged everything including our tour of the 4000 islands and a luxury minibus across the border to Phnom Penh. Cool!
Not quite. The tour of the 4ooo islands invloved a 1.5 hour boat trip to another island to look at waterfalls ''Like Niagra Falls'', but smaller and more like rapids, for 4.5 hours and another set of waterfalls for an hour. And our luxury minibus trip across the border involved 3 mini bus changes, each of reduced quality, a few éxtra' payments to officials and being dumped at a town over the border without a conecting bus until the next day.

But now I'm in Cambodia, Phnom Penh, full of all the facilities and comforts I could want, and just three more days of riding up to Siem Reap.
Unfortunately no Cinderella ending here. While riding back from The Killing Fields, which we couldn't find because there were no signs and no-one knew what we were talking about, I got lost, crashed my bike and smashed my arm. No more riding. Arhhhhh - more buses.
Cpp

1000km

Right now Hawk and I are down south in Pakse, and the day before yesterday we passed our 1000th km on the bikes.

Since leaving Vientiane the roads have be fairly flat and monotonous as we have stayed close to the Mekong River. We have battled consistent rain, at times I thought I saw Noah float past, and have continued to find it difficult to eat anything other than Noodle soup. The children still run alongside the road, shouting 'Sabaidee' and waving, and on occasion we have been challenged to a race through a village by a young kid looking for bragging rites.

The road along the flatland has been bound on either side by rice paddies and 'Farmers in Pajamas' and conicle hats. And while they battle to plant their crops in the rain, and we battle to cover the required distances each day, conditions have rarely allowed for the cameras to come out of their waterproof hide-aways.

Yesterday we loaded all our wet gear, bikes and weary bodies onto a bus, tired on the sameness and rain, and covered 368km in comfort, sunshine and at an average speed a little over 50km/h. For once we were the major road force, running down those that got in our way, and honking at those who slipped out of reach. And today we spent in an airconditioned minivan, complete with driver and tour guide [Udan - keen to practise his English], and explored the waterfalls of the Bolaven Plateau. While tomorrow we are back on the bikes.

[Would love to post photos but the Internet speed here won't allow it, so text only]
Cpp

Luang Prabang to Vientiane

For the last week or so Hawk and I have been slogging it out through some of the most beautiful countryside imaginable. Straight out of Luang Prabang we hit the mountains with spectacular views, little villages and demanding climbs.

The whole journey we have ridden into villages full of happy kids who chase after us, giving us 'High Five' and trying to race us along the road. The climbs have been really tough at times, and while the sweat is pouring off us and the speed has been low, it has been difficult to stop and pull the camera out. So while the scenery has been fabulous, I have been more intent on finishing each day, rather than gathering a collection of photos.

The Mathematics

While riding you are constantly 'doing the numbers'. Working out time done, kilometers to go, average speeds etc - It's a way to maintain your sanity, or possibly a way to encourage it.

The Exponential Climb

The other Day I started out on the final climb of the day. At may average speed for the day it was going to take another two hours to complete the ride. After 1 hour I checked my speed and he number of kilometers remaining. My speed had dropped away to a point where, after an hour of riding I still had 2 hours to go. An hour later I did the numbers again, only to find that I had slowed to a point where I had 3 hours to go. After three hours of riding I did the numbers again - four more hours- So I got off the bike and did the remaining kilometers in the back of a pick-up and it was over in 20 minutes, including a stop for some cucumbers.

Nutritian

While we were up in the hills we had to rely on small stalls in villages on the side of the road to provide us with food. Unfortunately, apart from an occasional Banana Stall, there is very little in the way of decent food. Many of the stalls only sell soft drink and potato chips, while in the villages when we have stopped at the end of each day the only food on offer has been 'Foe', rice noodle soup with a few vegetables. This soup fills you up but gives you no energy, and when you have it 4 meals in a row there is very little energy in the tank for some of the big climbs. This has probably been the hardest aspect of the trip - replacing the calories.

Shooting Monks

Devine Foresight

Perhaps only Buddha could have had a vision of the future that included the beauty of photography, and even the development of digital photography. Who else could have known that so many would occupy themselves chasing monks in order to capture the wonderful and stark contrast that is created by a flowing saffron robe?

The Hunt

Trying to capture the perfect image of a Monk, against a perfect backdrop, as they go about their business has become a particularly competivie sport. Photographers with long lenses and even longer tripods jostle for best position in order to make the perfect shot.

Monks are easy targets in their bright colours and have started to seek out shelter and safety in numbers.

Photographers must lie in wait for hours, seeking camoflague and shelter from the elements.

For some of the Monks it's all too much and all they want is to hide and avoid the prying eyes.

But for the photographer there is nothing better that the bold saffron on a stark white background.

To Laos

Reaching the Mekong

Have finally arrived in Laos after a fun 100km ride in the blistering heat and full of climbs.

Out of Chiag Rai Hawk and I rode at a wonderfully steady pace, covering a little under 60km in 2.5hours. The peddals were turning smoothly, all was flat and we had a nice little tailwind. When we hit the Mekong we stopped to find food, there was little English spoken, but eventually we managed some soup and noodles. So we recharged for a while and decided to push on for the Laos border.

Drifting Back

Hawk maitained a steady pace for the next 25+ km amd I managed to find a nice rhythm, just dropping back ever so slowly, which was fine by me as I was still not confident in my knee. Then the wind was no longer a tailwind and the flat became decidedly uphill. I felt like I must have been drifting futher back as someone had filled my bike panniers will concrete. My speed was dropping quickly from 30km down to 10-11km. Then I was faced with a big climb and my speed dropped again. Physically there was not alot left and I wasn't looking forward to the push up the hill, when I heard a voice from the trees where Hawk was perched in the shade. We stopped and recharged before commiting to the climb.

The Climb

As I watched Hawk pull away up the hill my commitment died, so I hailed a passing van with a lovely husband and wife in it. We threw my bike in the back and headed up the hill, stopping to pick up Hawk just 100m from the summit.

We contemplated continuing ourselves, only 24km from the border and facing a fabulous downhill ride, but we stayed in the truck thankfully as ahead there were two more big climbs, neither of which looked easy following our energy depletion from the heat. Once over the hills we jumped out of the van, gave the couple a little money and said our thank-yous. We could see Laos.

The rest of the day was the formalities of a border crossing, immigration and customs as well as finding a guesthouse in which to stay. No of these things are easy to achieve when tired, exhusted, dripping sweat and not understanding a word of Thai or Lao.

Sorry that there are no photos, but the internet here is slow. Later I will writeabout our trip om the Mekong where I have a few nice photos.

Cpp

Rest Day 1

Chiang Rai

Today is our first rest day and we're spending it in Chiang Rai where we are also enjoying a little respite from the heat. The first days we have been peddling out in the heat and direct sunshine, but today it's raining and cooler.

We have been out of Singapore for 5 days now, clocked up a few Km's [see The Narrow Shoulder for actual numbers] and seen some amazing sights already. I ticked off one of my 'Lifetime Must Do's' yesterday when I traveled downriver in a longtail boat. Just sat back and enjoyed the view.

Just laying back after a few days of riding, pointing the camera and seeing river life represented so much of what I'd wanted from this trip.

I wanted this to be a mix of a physical challenge along with a visual stimulus, something for the eyes and camera.

The Logistics

One of our biggest concerns had been getting the bikes safely on and off the plane. But big cardboard boxes, panniers and masking tape solved that the night before we left.

However, the next morning I had to open the box to check I had my helmet, so I opened it up then 're-maskingtaped' it.

At the airport I realised I'd forgotten to let the air pressure out of the tyres, so I opened it up again then 're-maskingtaped' it, again.

Finally at the ticketing desk I found I was well overweight, and so was my bike box. 2 Months riding around South East Asia should take care of my weight problem and $120.00 sing dollars should take care of the bike's weight problem.

Building the Bike

This was not as hard as I first thought it may be. The bikes were in good condition when we unpacked them so all we needed was an Allen Key and a Swiss Army Knife.

The Allen Key helped to tighten all the nuts on the bike, while the Swiss Army Knife undid the top of the Chang Beer bottle enough to loosen up the two nuts riding the bikes.

See ya

Cpp

On the Road

Today I am in a little town in Northern Thailand called Chang Dao about 80 km north of Chang Mai. It's a sleepy town with a nice hotel and a couple of small street restaurants with good food. A great place to recharge the batteries.

The day before yesterday was spent in planes and airports, chasing our bikes, which despite their size were difficult to locate in Bangkok's new Suvarnabhumi Airport. But when we finally got to Chang Mai we were greeted by a driver from the hotel who loaded on the bikes and drove us the 3kms to the hotel. Hawk and I were both keen to get the bikes unpacked and built so we could check if anything needed fixing before our journey could properly begin. Thankfully the bikes came together well and nothing needed any work.

Yesterday we did a little sightseeing on the bikes, testing them out and testing ourselves out. I felt good on the bike, but the traffic was difficult as all the drivers here seem to have broken turn indicators. We did a small mountain climb on the bikes in the afternoon to push the legs, I didn't mind the climb which I took easy, but I loved the descent where the bike wound out to 63km/h - not possible in Singapore where there are no hills.

Today's ride was just about clearing the town and finding a nice rhythm. We managed to average a nice speed for the first 40km which was all highway. Then we hit a nice section of forest and windy road which I really enjoyed as it represented the start of what I was really imagining our journey to be like. Towards the end of the ride I had a few difficulties with my right knee, so this afternoon has been spent stretching and walking with fingers crossed that it is nothing sinister and will pass.
Cpp

Haven't really had any photographic opportunities yet, but will start posting a few picture when the chance arises.

The Night Before

Wrapped up work today and headed off to get the final few things ready. First thing was to change my bicycle seat to the one off my racing bike. My thinking is that I've already done several thousand kilometres on it, and while it may feel a little hard at the moment, it may be a better option long-term. Or possibly the first and worst decision and you'll be hearing about it the entire trip.

Went down to 'Bike Uncle' to pick up a box to pack my bike in for the flight. Some of you may already be familiar with 'Bike Uncle', the no-nonsense guy from the bike shop who sold me my first bike when I got to Singapore. I felt a little sheepish about going to get the box from him as I rode there on the bike I'm taking on the trip, a bike he didn't sell me, a bike he has told me each time I've ridden past - 'I would have got you better one'. [This is the same 'Bike Uncle' who, when I got a previous bike stolen and was walking home straight after said - 'You need new bike. I have. Just arrived. Second hand. Sell you cheap' - Went to the back of the shop expecting to find my bike sitting there, but it wasn't. So I said 'How'd you know I needed a new bike? To which he replied 'Bikes here always stolen, I knew you need new bike one day.]

'Bike Uncle' provided the box with a smile and refused any money and I head off down the middle of Joo Chait Road on my bike with a great box under one arm. I felt reassured by the number of horns blaring that all the drivers could see me and there was little chance one wouldn't and would accidently knock me over.

Now the bike is packed, the bags are packed, the house is packed and I have just a short sleep until everything is airborne and the real story can begin.
Don't forget to look over at 'The Narrow Shoulder' for a few of the facts.
Cpp

Cycling Thailand/Laos/Cambodia

It's a little over 24 hours until our journey begins. Hawk and I have been living in the region for awhile and made a few trips together. A while back we started exploring the idea of having a trip that mixed a few tourist highlights, some off the beaten track exploring and the opportunity to take some wonderful photographs.



After tossing around a few ideas we eventually hit upon riding bicycles up through Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. It's close to home and we can explore more of the interesting places in the neighbourhood. We checked the web, found a couple of interesting websites, then bought a few maps and set about planning our trip.



Hawk and I bought a couple of suitable bikes and started decking them out ready for the trip. And now the time is upon us to make a start. I will be using this trip as an opportunity to get back writing and to develop as a photographer. While Hawk is looking at creating a guide for anyone interested in doing something similar. Hopefully between the two of us we can create something interesting. Check out the gear and the outline for the trip, plus updates on hawks site as well at http://www.thenarrowshoulder.blogspot.com/



For me this trip is a big change from the last two major trips which have been to India - Solo.
Cpp